EVS again

22 March 2012


What to say ? What happened since last autumn ? What about the walls discovered ?

I have to say that I didn’t expect such a bad weather, snow, rain, cold. This is how all the winter occurred indoor.

First days of march let me some hope. Oker was too huge, with a difficult access for those crazy tufas, and Amphiteatar and Dome will wait for our level to raise up to 8c. But we although found some nice opportunities :

first continuing the development of Kameni Most (Sljuka and me are back on the stage, driller in hand ; 4 new routes should appear very soon).

Then, I finally decided to abseil at the Black Rock, just over the road … Yes, I hesitated some time but I needed to do something, with some better conditions coming back. This is how I began to bolt “Pojacaj”, the first route, just by the roadside. Pojacaj, because you can belay from the car. This rock, that I didn’t really trust at the beginning, was finally good enough for climbing and propose a completely new type of routes for the area : more long and physical, perfect for progression. For now, 6 new routes. Warming up around 6a, then four routes between 7a and 7c, and lately the biggest thing I’ve bolted here, “East is the beast”, 40 meters around … 8b ? Anyway a monster I would like to visit as soon as possible. Just waiting for the end of rain, that disappear every week to reappear … every week. Hard to get the not good but just not too bad conditions, but we chose outdoor isn’t it ???

This boulder sector that we developed at Zvecaj gave us the same difficulties. Altogether 40 boulders have been cleaned, in every level. But we really had to hide from the rain and run out as soon as sun was coming (isn’t it Igor ?). Good to have so much projects to try, and leave a bit the indoor boulder. We just wait, again, for the place to dry. Yes, this months of May and June was truly disappointing.

So for now the main thing will be to close the road and finish cleaning the monster … then Kameni Most and this “Strsljen” sector, which will raise from 3 to 7 routes (as well as grades, 6b+ to … 7b+ ?).

Anyway it’s not about numbers but for sure about GOING OUT AND CLIMBING AT LEAST, feeling energy pushing you to the car through the canyon and exploding on projects. That’s the only thing it really is about.

We updated section Climbing areas so now you can find photos and routes list on Black rock.

Julien Mayet


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