We have planned to go on a climbing trip to Paklenica for a long, long time. Also last year we wanted go there to climb but we finally decided head on to Romanija. This, year, we couldn’t stall any more on 22^nd of April we’re going to Paklenica.

We picked April because of a long weekend due to the holidays and a smaller number of visitors, so we hoped to avoid crowds of climbers on routes. Till now, the only active member of the club that visited Paklenica is Šljuka, when he, Pećanac and a few other members in 2005 visited this dream for all climbers. Now there was seven of us: Igor, Šljuka, Marija, Zuba, Zoka, Mićko and me. We have reviewed photos, studied the guide, but nothing can prepare you enough for the first visit to a climbing area of this range and quality.

We just weren’t in the best mood during the trip, because we were off in a bad start, because of delay, Mićko was punished for speeding (53km/h in a 50km/h zone :), but on the next morning, climbing forced out anything else from our heads.

We climbed every day, morning and afternoon, short sport routes, long routes, and boulders, grade or number of attempts was not important to us and we returned tired, with cut hands, and spent cheekbones, but we were happy and satisfied.

The only regret was, that due to weather conditions we were unable to climb more, especially Mosoroški, the route that Šljuka and I wanted to climb, but will return for more attempts.

I have to mention that the most valuable thing that we (or at least I) got from this trip is good experience, since we had an opportunity to climb on a lot of different routes, equipped by a many experienced climbers. Therefore this trip will certainly help in our work on equipping sport routes in canyon Tijesno.

By the way, if you did not know if you can swim in the Velebit Channel in April or not, we say, you may, but it is not recommended, see photos below if you don’t know why.

We also visited Zadar, on Marija’s demand and there I had one of the most terrifying experiences of my life, and no it wasn’t while climbing. We’re driving back from Zadar to our camp. We are all tired, better to say exhausted. I look toward Mićko (who is the driver) and Mićko like a little, innocent angel in his sleep, is lowering his head towards the steering wheel !!! Mićko respect !

Dženan

It seemed like just another one of those sunny and warm days that week, so we decided to abseil into the canyon’s sector Arena (aka Djevojačka kosa = Girls hair) from Manjača and bolt anchors for the first long routes in the canyon. As you can se from the hairstyles it was so windy that we could hardly look, yet alone efficiently and safely work so we decided to check the rumors of interesting rocks somewhere in Manjača, near the village Mačkići.

After a drive and inquiry with the locals we managed to find the village. After a short and interesting greeting from the colorful residents we set off into exploration. It did not take long before we realized the potential of this location: high walls pierces with caves as well as the beautiful views were surely worth the visit. As the end drew to a close we were forced to head back to our cars and as it turned out right in time, since shortly after we started driving back home we were caught by a heavy shower.

However, after this visit, it is unlikely that this place will become a visited climbing location in the near (and far) future, because of the it’s distance and bad quality of stone in many pats of the wall.

Hit by a wave of warm and sunny weather we decided to visit canyon Tijesno. The goal was to find walls suitable for making climbing routes, above all the ones that were climbed in the 80’s, with routes like “Prvi sipar” and “Oker”. With such nice weather the best way of getting around the canyon is by bike. So we mounted our bikes and went to explore. We had no idea how much our effort will be rewarded.

On the entrance to canyon Tijesno looking from Banjaluka we went into a small entrance between the walls to check out if there is anything interesting. We were surprised to say the least, when we stumbled across another stone bridge, thus bringing the number of to us known stone bridges in the canyon to three. This 15 meter high stone bridge and the neighboring walls around it give a lot of possibilities for shorter sport routes, but that will take more exploration and cleaning. Another object that we were excited to find in this sector is a small cave, with a lot of bouldering problems and a bed of soft sand. Unfortunately it is clear that during rainy weather it is just too wet to climb.

With our eyes and harts full of beauty we continue our ride through the canyon in the direction of Krupa na Vrbasu. At one wider part of the road, opposite to the rock called “Muflon”, we walk down from the road on to a moving rock bed that “flows” beneath the intercity road and “flows” into river Vrbas.

Soon we find ourselves beneath a magnificent piece of rock for which we (by the description of the Alpinist section of the Mountaineering society Kozara from 1982.) believe to be the same one where some 25 years ago a route “Prvi sipar” was climbed. After a long time spent looking, exploring and testing the quality of the rock, we find a tunnel through the rock. It was probably made for taking samples or making measurements during the building of the hydropower plant or the road. After this discovery we had just enough energy and time left to ride back home. But the ride back was not without adventures, since Igor has broken a pedal, so we had to improvise a repair on the road.

In any case, on this trip we found some places to which we shall surely come back to many times.

On Saturday 9th of February five members of our club have experienced three seasons when visiting the canyon of river Cvrcka net Kotor Varoš. Zuba, Šljuka, Dženan, Igor Vukić i Igor Savić hiked from Vrbanjci to Kneževo, passing through the whole canyon of river Cvrcka. About half an hour before they exited the canyon and on it’s hardest part, the first snowflakes were noticed.

The whole adventure lasted about nine hours, from which six hour were needed to pass through the canyon. After the canyon hike, two hours were spent at a bus station near Kneževo, and during that time a snow cover grew around the young adventurers while they were warming up by the fire. However, all this time spent in the canyon was not enough to see all the natural beauty that Cvrcka offers. All the cascades, waterfalls, natural sledges, rocks for climbing, caves, scenes of untouched nature and other surprises that this river threw at them seemed infinite. After this exhausting experience, only one thing is on their mind, to go back as soon as possible.

We wish all visitors happy New Year and holidays!