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 We have planned to go on a climbing trip to Paklenica for a long, long time. Also last year we wanted go there to climb but we finally decided head on to Romanija. This, year, we couldn’t stall any more on 22nd of April we’re going to Paklenica.
We picked April because of a long weekend due to the holidays and a smaller number of visitors, so we hoped to avoid crowds of climbers on routes. Till now, the only active member of the club that visited Paklenica is Šljuka, when he, Pećanac and a few other members in 2005 visited this dream for all climbers. Now there was seven of us: Igor, Šljuka, Marija, Zuba, Zoka, Mićko and me. We have reviewed photos, studied the guide, but nothing can prepare you enough for the first visit to a climbing area of this range and quality.
We just weren’t in the best mood during the trip, because we were off in a bad start, because of delay, Mićko was punished for speeding (53km/h in a 50km/h zone :), but on the next morning, climbing forced out anything else from our heads.
We climbed every day, morning and afternoon, short sport routes, long routes, and boulders, grade or number of attempts was not important to us and we returned tired, with cut hands, and spent cheekbones, but we were happy and satisfied.
The only regret was, that due to weather conditions we were unable to climb more, especially Mosoroški, the route that Šljuka and I wanted to climb, but will return for more attempts.
I have to mention that the most valuable thing that we (or at least I) got from this trip is good experience, since we had an opportunity to climb on a lot of different routes, equipped by a many experienced climbers. Therefore this trip will certainly help in our work on equipping sport routes in canyon Tijesno.
By the way, if you did not know if you can swim in the Velebit Channel in April or not, we say, you may, but it is not recommended, see photos below if you don’t know why.
We also visited Zadar, on Marija’s demand and there I had one of the most terrifying experiences of my life, and no it wasn’t while climbing. We’re driving back from Zadar to our camp. We are all tired, better to say exhausted. I look toward Mićko (who is the driver) and Mićko like a little, innocent angel in his sleep, is lowering his head towards the steering wheel !!! Mićko respect !
Dženan
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Rock trips
Cjelodnevna izloženost prejakom suncu i kupanje u prehladnom moru na ostrvu van sezone bez turista – ne zvuči baš zanimljivo. Međutim, ne tako mala grupa (nas 11) odvažnih „Robinzona Krusoa“ je jedino tada mogla da se nađe na mjestu koje u odnosu na sva dosadašnja putovanja najviše podsjeća na Defoovu priču. Jedini motiv da se neko u to vrijeme turistički uputi na Hvar može biti samo jedno – penjanje. Bolji razlog i ne treba za ekipu „extrema“ ovisnim o penjanju. Toliko mnogo sati potrošenih na skupljanje informacija po netu o kristalno čistom moru na Hvaru i tamošnjim autentičnim „cvrenim stijenama“, konačno su postale stvarnost.
Prošlo je već dosta vremena od načeg boravka u Švajcarskoj i već je krajnje vrijeme da napisem nešto i o toj avanturi.
Približio nam se 1. maj i naravno planirano je da idemo negdje na penjanje. Prva ideja je bila da idemo u Jelasnicu kod Niša. U početku su naravno svi zainteresovani, ali kako se primicao dan odlaska, spala knjiga na 2 slova. Na kraju ostali nas četvoro : Igor, Snježana, Marija i ja (Šljuka). Na kraju smo odlučili da idemo u Omiš. Dobio sam auto od ćaleta, nasuli gorivo i pravac magistrala. Naišli smo u Drvar i posjetili pećinu Ledenicu. Inače, pećina Ledenica je jedna od najljepših pećina bivše Juge. U Omiš smo stigli kasno naveče, smjestili smo se u kampu Lisičina, kao i prošle godine. Kamp je odličan, ima dnevni boravak, kuhinju, šatori su u hladovini, domaćin ljubazan neki čovjek, nije ni skupo, ma raj na zemlji.
